FOUR DAYS IN CAMBODIA

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NGUYEN KINH DOANH

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We were at Vietravel on Friday afternoon May 11, 2007 to attend the orientation for our trip to Cambodia. The speaker was Chau Sao Ri. He gave us information on weather, custom, culture, currency, clothing…in Cambodia.

Chau Sao Ri is a 24-year old handsome, intelligent, courteous, enthusiastic and charming gentleman. He is also the Tour Guide during our four days and three nights in Cambodian Kingdom.

After giving his speech, Vietravel gave each of us a hat and one travel bag. We were instructed to be back at 5:45AM the next day.

On Saturday, we departed 11 minutes late because three persons in our group Binh, Trang and Phuong were not on time. We have 17 persons: Anh Nhan, Chi Hieu, Ong Nam, Ba Nam, Do Kim Thien, Ba Hoa, Ba Hien, Giang, Hong, Binh, Trang, Phuong, Ong No, Ba No, Dang Khoa, Helen and myself Nguyen Kinh Doanh.

The driver stopped at Hoang Minh III Restaurant in Trang Bang on Highway 22 to have breakfast. Then, half an hour later we were at Moc Bai – the border to divide Vietnam and Cambodia.

U.S. dollar is used nationwide in Cambodia. In addition, the country also uses Vietnamese and Cambodian currency.

One US dollar is equal to 4,000 riel (Cambodian currency). And one thousand riel is equal to 4,000 Vietnamese dong. Thus, Cambodian money has four times more value than Vietnamese currency.

After being at the border for 45 minutes to process the paper, we were on the way to Siemreap. Another Guide joined us: Soc Ra – a friendly gentleman with cheerful smile. Each of us had an extra special gift of Vietravel: a leather cover for the passport. Right across the border in Cambodia on the left side, several casinos are in operation. The first one is Kings Crown Casino & Hotel.

We stopped at a luxurious facility for lunch that served 11 items. At 7:30PM we were at Angkor Mondial Restaurant for dinner. The Siem Reap dining hall is famous for 72 items on the buffet. After finishing the dinner, we checked in at Majestic Hotel.

Second day. In the morning, at 6:00 AM, we had a breakfast buffet at Majestic Hotel. Sixty three items included: porridge, cereal, pancake, bacon, grounded meat, fried rice, steamed bun, egg rolls, fried daikon, pineapple juice…

Then, Chau Sao Ri led us to Angkor Thom and Ta Prohm. Previously, Soc Ra warned ladies in the tour not to wear short skirts climbing up the steps of the temples to protect gentlemen who walked below. "In the past, there were incidences of men who walked below ladies wearing short skirts." He emphasizes, "Instead of concentration on the steps of solid stones, men fell down for staring below the short skirts, causing serious injuries."

Giant palaces and huge Buddha faces were built here with distinguished signs. We quietly stared at different dynamic sceneries at Babyon, Baphuon and elephant stadium.

All of us were exhausted by the time we got to Samapheap Restaurant located in Vat Bo Village for lunch. This Restaurant has European, Khmer, Chinese, and Asian foods. They also organize parties and weddings.

In the afternoon, we were taken to Ocean Lake to see extreme poverty of Cambodia. Leading to the lake, there are hundreds of "moving houses." These homes are not on the wheels. Very simple "patch ups" are added to live in. When water level rises, they evacuate themselves to other areas.

Before getting in the boat, our pictures were snapped. Later on, they had the photos imprinted on the plates to sell for 10,000 riel (2.50 US dollars). Of course, it is our right to accept or decline the offer.

Our boat stopped at New House Fresh Water Fish Ranch Restaurant on the lake. Immediately, we were surrounded by mothers carrying babies and kids up to about 12 years old. They were very determined beggars, slamming their four little boats to our boat to catch attention. One of the persons in our group counted, there were 23 of them. He took out a 100,00 Vietnamese bill and changed it to 23,000 riel. Then being a philanthropist, he handed out 23 times. Each one was given one thousand riel. Now there were more than 23 of them. Some had the gift twice. The philanthropist decided to give no more money.

In the floating restaurant, we were offered soft drinks, beer, and fried shrimps. When we left, four kids clung tightly on the boat fences asking for the money. All of us declined and together they released their arms and legs jumping down onto the lake.

We continued our trip on the lake; passing through the church, school, library, and basketball room built on the water by Japan and Korea. To assure people recognize their generosity, they put their flags on the "merchandises."

The sensational event of our visit was Angkor Wat. It constitutes magnificent architectural achievements. In 1992, UNESCO World Heritage Committee declared the monument, and the whole Angkor City, a World Heritage Site.

Last, but not least, for the day was Phnom Bakheng at Angkor. It is a Hindu temple in the form of a temple mountain. Located atop a hill, we were there for sunset views of the much bigger temple Angkor Wat, which lies amid the jungle about 1.5 km to the southeast.

That night, in Siem Reap we had a dinner buffet at Amazon Dinner Restaurant with 81 delicious courses. Em Sophal, The Director of the Restaurant, is indeed a creative, dynamic and talented boss.

Third day. On Monday May 14, 2007, we had breakfast again at Majestic Hotel before checking out and heading for Phnom Penh. At noon, we went in Tonle Bassac Restaurant on Mao Tse Tung Street in Phnom Penh for lunch. The buffet there is fantastic with 92 varieties.

We checked in at Phnom Penh Hotel on Monivong Blvd. In general, the streets in Phnom Penh are wider in Saigon and the traffic is lighter.

The name Phnom Penh was taken from Phnom Doun Penh, a wealthy widow who built a small temple on the hill to house five Buddha sculptures in the fourteenth century. Phnom Penh is the capital of Cambodia. Also, this is the wealthiest and most populous city in Cambodia. The 2007 population surpasses 2 million people in an area of 145.2 square miles. Soc Ra and Chau Sao Ri led us inside Wat Phnom – the legendary temple Mrs. Penh constructed.

Soc Ra told us that being in there you can pray for prosperity, health, happiness…but not love. He said many had related to him that "praying for love" at the Wat Phnom does not work.

Our next stop is The New Market located in the center of Phnom Penh. This dark-yellow building has four wings filled with shops selling gold and silver jewelry, antique coins, watches, and miscellaneous items. Around the main building are the stalls selling scarves, household items, sarongs, flowers, etc. In addition, there are also food stalls on western side.

One very interesting factor about the food in Cambodia that most foreigners dare not eat are fried crickets, locusts, spiders, grasshoppers, termite, katydids, dragonflies, beetle and some other insects.

Health food specialists claim that they are high in protein, low in fat, and insects are a rich source of nutrition. They are usually available at markets and food stands all over Cambodia.

Nearby is Russian Market, famous for real and fake antiquities. Objects for sale include miniature Buddha, ritual objects, Indochinese coins, books, DVDs, vegetable, meat…Sellers speak Russian.

Olympic Market is at a short distance from the Russian Market and is specialized in selling bicycle parts, clothes, electronics, groceries and toiletries.

We also try Tuk-Tuk. It is the Southeast Asian version of a vehicle known as auto rickshaw or cabin cycle. Tuk-Tuk has front end of a motorcycle comprising of steering, tank and engine/ gearbox with a covered tray mounted at the back. The power is transferred by chain to an axle mounted to the modified rear fork which drives the two rear wheels. Suspended upon the rear fork is an open cabin with an in-line seat on each side. This arrangement can carry 6 people at ease, with their luggage in the leg space. It is not unusual to see these vehicles greatly overloaded, especially in other suburbs and around markets.

Tuk-Tuks do not have meters and users generally bargain with the driver for a price to take them to a specified destination. In Bangkok, there is now a maximum fee which drivers may not exceed. This has tended to become the default fee for foreigners. As with all non metered transport, not agreeing on the price before departure can create unethical practice by the driver.

Drivers also earn money by having advertising posters and placards on their vehicles. In addition, by diverting passengers to certain businesses that cater to tourists, drivers can earn fuel vouchers or other commissions. Most drivers also decorate their Tuk-Tuks with religious charms and small Buddha images.

On July 10, 2006, Tuk-Tuks were introduced in Brighton, England. A fleet of twelve Tuk-Tuks operated using compressed natural gas, as the first motorized rickshaw service in Europe, between Brighton Marina and Hove.

Leaving the Markets, a special visitor greeted us: Mr. Chong Sovanny, President of CN International Travel Co. Ltd. He asked us if we were happy with the tour. We all answered: "Yes." I regret to forget asking to take a picture with him for the article.

The Guides took us to Ly Heng, a beautiful jewelry store on Road 110. They have a very attractive selection of gem and jewelry. Mr. Heng offered us coconut juice and explained to us on how his gem had been selected.

Then, we were free to shop or look around at Pailin Center where they sell clothing, jewelry, computers…After that, we had dinner together at Restaurant Sorya and relaxed to enjoy music and professional dancers performing different Cambodian styles.

The last stop for the day was at Naga Corp. Casino in Phnom Penh. The significant thing at this Casino is they create false sky. When customers come in, they look above at 9AM and 1AM, the sky looks the same. In Phnom Penh, there are 2 casinos. In Shihanoukville, there are 3. And in provinces, there are 10. Wow! In Vietnam, as far as I know, there are no more than 2.

Spending half an hour there, none of us gambled even the philanthropist. Going back to the Hotel at 9:14PM, very tired and sleepy, we went to bed immediately preparing for the next fresh day.

Fourth day. On Tuesday May 15, 2007, we had breakfast in Phnom Penh Hotel very early. The buffet has 63 items of foods and drinks – a gigantic selection of a breakfast!

Our last visit for the day was the Royal Palace. It was first constructed in 1434 in Oudong. Then in 1866, The Royal Palace was moved to the present location in Phnom Penh. The Royal Palace area is 435 meters long by 421 meters wide and its complex is surrounded by high wall. All Palace constructions were set up to the Khmer Traditional Architecture, built by Okhna Tep Nimith Mak, a leading Khmer Architect. Inside the Royal Palace are the Silver Pagoda, the Throne Hall, Khemarain Palace, and Chan Chhaya Pavilion. Other structures include a French-style building – a gift from Napoleon III, a Royal Dining Hall, and a pavilion-like theatre.

The Silver Pagoda is referred to as Wat Preah Keo. Its main building houses many national treasures such as gold and jeweled Buddha statues.

Because the main image housed inside is made of emerald, the temple is called the "Temple of the Emerald Buddha." Taking its name from the silver floor, it is often known as the "Silver Pagoda." The floor is completely covered with 5,329 silver tiles. The most notable is Maitreya Buddha encrusted with 9,584 diamonds dressed in royal regalia commissioned by King Sisowath.

The Throne Hall is today used as a place for religious and royal ceremonies as well as a meeting place for the King’s guests. In addition, the Khemarin Palace is the residence of the King. And Chan Chhaya Pavilion is an open-air stage for Khmer classical dance in the past and present. It has a balcony using as a platform for viewing parades marching along Sothearos Boulevard of Phnom Penh.

Leaving the Royal Palace at 9:36 AM, we headed back to the border. On the way, we had lunch and stopped at Arunas Hotel in Kompong Thom to rest. At this location, some of us bought fried crickets, locusts…and fruits.

Before going in Neakloeung Ferry, Soc Ra told us to bring all happy events with us and please let all sad stories as well as hatred down into the water.

That afternoon we were back in Saigon. We are grateful to President Chong Sovanny, Chau Sao Ri, Soc Ra, Photographer Ta Map, Driver Chanda, Vietravel, and others whose dedicated efforts are very praiseworthy. They helped to make our trip more interesting and pleasant.

NGUYEN KINH DOANH

MAY 2007

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